After no sleep the night before and some decisions I regretted today made up for it all. My new friend K, who I had met while checking into my hostel, and I got up early to make our way to Coyoacán and Frida Kalo’s house. Another traveler whom K had met at the Lucha Libre show the night before joined us. Although we got to Casa Azule, Fridas House, an hour before it opened, we had a long wait to get in. While in line, I bought a lovely woven shawl from a local artisan walking through the line and tried crickets for the first time!
I had wanted to try crickets since I first saw them at a food stand my first day here, so when I was offered some by the lovely woman and her personal driver (locals) waiting alongside us, I jumped at the chance. Let me tell you, they were delicious. They were salty and crunchy, almost like potato chips if you ignored the spiny legs that got stuck in my teeth. I know it’s not for everyone, but I bought some with Picante and an ice-cold pineapple juice from another vendor walking through the crowd. It was a perfect pick-me-up as the heat and humidity started to set in with the sun high in the sky.
Our time in line went by pretty fast. The locals who gave us the crickets kept us company, chatting about the city, and they even let K sit in their car with the air-conditioning on to cool off.
After cooling down and drinking some cold coconut water, K was ready to join us just in time for our turn in the museum. Before this trip, I knew little about Frida Kalao, so we rented the English tour headsets to learn more about her legacy.
Even if you know a lot about Frida Kalo and Diego Rivera, the price of the audio tour is well worth it. It gives you insight into her art, her and Diego’s relationship, and the importance of particular objects in her home.
Casa Azule is a spectacular homage to Frida’s life and legacy. Walking through its’ rooms, it is easy to see why she has become a symbol of strength, pride, and resistance for Mexicans, women, and the LGBTQ+ community.
A truly magnificent bonus traveling here the weekend of Día de los Muertos is seeing the ofrenda to Frida the museum puts up for her. It was absolutely breathtaking, living its beholders with a sense of her continuous impact on the world despite not being widely recognized in her life.
After our tour, we said goodbye to R as he had to catch his flight home. K and I had worked up our appetite seeing that we were close to Coyoacán Market; it was a perfect opportunity to experience a traditional Mexican market.
I did not get enough pictures here, but this market was lovely. From artisan crafts to food and household necessities, this market had everything the community needed. We were amazed by the brightly colored goods and atmosphere. While wandering around, we spotted several fruits that neither of us had heard of. So, of course, when a gentleman flagged us down and started to feed us, we ended up overpaying for some of the best and most interesting fruit I have ever had. Yes, we overpaying, but We were not mad. The price was well worth the show and entertainment the vendor put on.
First off, when he fed us passionfruit, he showed us with his finger how to make a hook with it and scrape out the contents before slurping it up. He made me laugh so hard several times throughout the interaction with our broken Spanish and his miming and gestures. At one point, he took two round fruits and described them as maracas shaking them in his hands and doing a little dance. After purchasing our fruit, he had us pose for photos with these little cardboard signs for the cheesiest photo ever. I loved every second of it. It’s these moments that I travel for. Well, those and the food we had next.
When I tell you I have never had ceviche this good before, I mean it. A quarter of the market was filled with food stalls, and most were closed. We ended up squishing into one that was packed and busy to fill our stomachs. The ceviche, full of raw shrimp and vegetables marinated in lime covered in sala, was served on salty crispy tostadas. I still dream about this meal; it was that good.
With our bellies full, we made our way over to neighborhood Roma, famous for its street art hipster vibe and Market full of up-and-coming chefs making traditional Mexican food with a twist. At the market, we met up with Z and two of her friends she had traveled on and off with for several months in South America. We sat here for a couple hours drinking and eating, relaxing in good company. I needed up trying tacos on a purple corn tortilla. It got its color from the mold that naturally grows on corn in the field, and it just gave it a lovey sweater yet earthy taste. I also tried a local mezcal strait which, for some reason, is extremely impressive to everyone. The cool thing about mezcal in Mexico is the curve with a green orange. The sweet and sour light orange flavor balanced well with the slightly hot and smoky local mezcal.
After a couple hours and fresh churros and popsicles, we left and went bar hopping. The best drink of the night was a mezcal, cinnamon, and hibiscus margarita that was to die for at some bar for which I can’t remember its name.
Another fantastic day on the books, but with rain in the forecast, I was not sure what to expect from my 5th day in Mexico City. Little did I know that this rainy day would alter and inspire my travels for the rest of my life.
Places To Go
Cassa Azule Frida’s House – The Frida Kahlo Museum – $27.98 Mexican Pesos + adio guide -Londres 247, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Coyoacán Market – Free – Ignacio Allende s/n, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Mercado Roma – free – food prices range $-$$ -Calle Querétaro 225Mexico City, 06700
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